Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[whiskee]

Just finished the third plane in my "Warplanes of the Axis" series. This one is the Bf-108 "taifun" Its a liaison and vip transport plane. I finished it withe Bulgaria decals. I am trying to fit as many countries as poissible in this series. This particular little bird as seen its better days and is dire need need of a repaint since its original coat is wearing off. Hope you enjoy.

[SAS~Howlin]

looks really good, now for an age old secret for brush painters...matt spray varnish, pick up a can of humbrol spray can matt vernish number 49, it will make your model look better ten fold, not only will it protect your model, it will also hide most brush strokes and give you a smooth and realistic finish.

[whiskee]

looks really good, now for an age old secret for brush painters...matt spray varnish, pick up a can of humbrol spray can matt vernish number 49, it will make your model look better ten fold, not only will it protect your model, it will also hide most brush strokes and give you a smooth and realistic finish.

thanks so much! I was close to getting "the look" i wanted with this model. i definalty need some matte finish though. my wash will be better next timne too. that was my first time trying that.

[Slink]

Howlin is right, but use satin varnish and you can reproduce the sheen effect seen on any matt painted plane at a distance or when it catches the light. It will also eliminate the false edges on the decals and stop them coming off! You can also use the same floor polish as for cockpits, what's the stuff called now? Different name/product over here. if you're using the varnish you can also mix matt/satin/gloss to adjust the sheen level to match the scale of the model (same as lightening the paint tints for scale distance effect, especially semi primaries like on spinners and rudders etc; same actually goes for IL2 skins, things like red trim tabs often stand out far too much. Just be sure to put it on very thin, especially the varnish, as it tends to blob very easily on any edges. Equally, the backdrop lets the models down, just use a non-reflective neutral grey cloth for a 'green [grey] screen' effect, and daylight bulbs for lighting indoors, and keep up the good work.

[SAS~Howlin]

your forgetting scale effect, satin for ww2 planes in 1/72 looks too shiney, you would use satin varnish for 1/48 and 1/32, but general rule of thumb in 1/72 anything up to vietnam era jets generally gets a matt varnish, after that you go for satin.but its all about personal taste.

[Slink]

Well, I did say mix them to match the scale, and adjusting colour tints for scale (distance) effects would actually be a step more advanced.  Equally factory fresh is not the same as old and weathered, so a base coat with a hint of sheen and then washes and weathering over (the smoother surface helps, and protects the camo and decals too). I find pure matt just too hard, but also depends on manufacturer and method, and we are talking about more of an art than a science so it is indeed up to the individual. More important is that if you're going to use such effects it's vital to remove and smooth out any joint lines, as they'll become even more noticeable.

[SAS~Howlin]

sorry bud, misread your original post, your spot on about the mix and match, and the join lines, infact your above post is pretty perfect in an explanation on finishing and photographing your models.

[Messer]

If you're planning a repaint, let me know - there's a very rare war-time color photo of a Bulgarian Bf-108 in low-level flight.

Still looks fine, though.