Well no I haven't been doing much with my RC models of late, the main thing is, if you're going to print silkspan, it has to be the really fine, lightweight, close grained, almost tissue type of silkspan. And you have to treat the models covered with it with kid gloves, as they will puncture just by looking at them. My Tripe is a mass of patches, it looks like the Flying Circus has had a field day with it.
You can attach sheets of silkspan to normal sheets of paper with a light smear of UHU sticky on each corner and carefully run it through. But you have to test your print size image and might have to make several pieces. Printing out a lot of PC10 colors eats through your printer cartridges in a couple models You have to either refill or buy lots of new ones.
Doculam is so much easier, it takes cheap spray acrylic paint if you clean it with denatured alcohol and scuff it lightly with fine #1500 sandpaper. You might be able to attach printed tissue to Doculam, I've not tried it but it's pretty good for flexibility, the AVRO F model had working wing warping with Doculam.
You know about Guillows and their WWI Laser cut rubber kits? And there's also a small company in New Mexico called Aerodrome RC
http://www.aerodromerc.com/ that make a large array of parkflyer and larger sized laser cut WWI and Golden Age kits that you have to supply the stripwood and some sheetwood for.
Aerodrome's kits are pricey but are beautifully made. They're designed for electric power RC and they have a lot of different models. The small ones are a little too heavy for tissue or indoor silkspan, and would be best built with either Doculam or the precolored plastic fiber covering, I think it's called Spun-Span or some such.
You have to give SpunSpan a coat of sealer, some folks use Acrylic Varnish or One Step vinyl floor gloss. The aromatic wood sealant finishes are best but not good to breathe.